Some time ago I wrote this wee guide on MySpace to help the potential corset buyers out there. There are so many low quality corsets around, and I hate to see people paying what is a fairly substantial amount of money for anything sub-standard. So, even if you decide not to buy your corset from me, at least you'll be armed with the information to avoid the duds out there.
1. FIT: This is of primary importance in your corset. This is the most body forming (literally) garment you could possibly wear. In these days of comfortable, stretchy lycra and baggy clothes it's easy to forget how crucial good fit is. In the case of a corset bad fitting can be at best uncomfortable, at worst damaging.
Off-the-rack corsets do fit a lot of people, especially underbusts. But only if your figure conforms to fairly average proportions. If you don't, and many of us don't, particularly in the bust department, then you should really go for made-to-measure. This isn't necessarily as expensive as you might think.
You should ideally have a two inch gap at the back (once the corset is broken in) and minimal restriction on the hips and ribcage. Most reduction should be on your waist.
An overbust should hold you comfortably and give you extra cleavage without overspill or a shelf under your chin.
You might notice that a lot of cheaper corsets have a rather straight, tubular shape. This is neither comfortable or flattering. You want a corset to emphasise your shape, not make you look like a boned satin sausage!
Incidentally, when you go for a fitting, make sure you've had something to eat a while before, but not a huge meal (or a lot of gassy drinks).
2. QUALITY: If you're shelling out good money for a corset make sure you're paying for decent quality. I see so many poor quality corsets with stupid mistakes. If a corsetmaker can't even put a busk in the right way up then can you trust them to make you something decent that will last more than a couple of wearings.
3. FABRICS: Your corset should be of good quality fabrics. It requires a strong, non-stretch strength layer. Ideally this should be coutil, a speciality cotton twill type fabric designed for the purpose. This may be the only layer in the corset (contrary to popular opinion - many layers are not essential for a corset. Many original Victorian corsets were single layer) or it may be covered by a fashion fabric such as silk, satin, a printed cotton etc.
It may also be lined - in a breathable fabric. Synthetic satins will get sticky and uncomfortable very quickly if used to line such a tight-fitting item.
Please remember, a 'corset' without a strength layer will not last, will not reduce your waist and will probably come apart at a rapid rate.
4. BONING: For a corset to be a corset it should be boned with steel boning. This might be flat spring steel or spiral steel (looks like a flattened spring). The latter is more flexible and comfortable, the former stiffer. It's really a matter of preference. However the bones next to the eyelets should always be flat steel. If it looks wiggly along the back closure then it's been boned with spiral which is incorrect, will be hard to lace and will not lie flat against the body.
There are some types of plastic boning that work adequately, but the jury is rather out on how effective they are. Never entertain anything made with soft rigilene type plastic boning as a corset (except in the case of some 18th century and earlier styles). That stuff is useless for a waist cinching corset. It distorts, is uncomfortable, pokes out in the wrong places and will do nothing for you.
Also ensure there is a decent amount of boning. A sparsely boned corset will be less comfortable than a more heavily boned one.
5. BUSKS: A front opening closure (busk) is not essential, but it makes it a lot easier to get in and out of your corset. When shopping for a corset, look at the studs of the closure. If it has two studs closer together, these should be at the bottom of the busk. If they're at the top the busk has been put in upside down and will be trickier to operate. Also, if the front opening gapes at the top of the busk there should be a hook an eye or similar to hold it shut. I also put a modesty placket behind the busk to hide that annoying little gap down the front (not all corsetmakers do that but it's a pet hate of mine).
6. EYELETS: A corset should have well set two part eyelets or grommets (there is some confusion between these terms either side of the Atlantic). Basically if the eyelet has a rough split edge inside with no washer on the back then avoid like the plague. These will scratch you and eventually pull out.
A rear modesty panel is a nice extra touch as it makes the laces more comfortable and allows more flexibility for fit, but make sure it's an adequate width and designed in such a way as to lie flat and stay in position.
7. APPEARANCE & FINISH: Your corset should look nice and smooth. Some fabrics produce the odd inevitable crease where the body bends, but the goal is to get it as smooth as possible. If the fabric is heavily wrinkled then the fabric choice if inappropriate for a corset, it hasn't been handled correctly or it just doesn't fit.
The stitching should be even and secure. There are a LOT of seams involved in a corset, and a lot of strain on those seams, they MUST be strong.
The binding should be nice and smooth too and preferably partially hand-sewn to give a clean finish. You're spending your money on a high-end and expensive garment so make sure it looks that way.
8. PRICE: Price isn't always an indicator of quality but it's a good guideline. The basic components of a corset are expensive before even getting to the very labour intensive construction process. Therefore your warning lights should flash at anything that seems 'too' cheap as it probably is too good to be true. Mass-produced, low quality corsets from the far east have been flooding the market recently. Especially beware online purchases, particularly auction sites such as ebay as it's quite common for disreputable sellers to 'borrow' photographs that are not actually the item they will be sending.
It is possible to get a semi or fully custom corset for only a little more money than an off-the-rack mass produced one. There are many makers who are determined to keep prices as affordable as possible to allow customers to experience a great quality corset. You don't have to settle for these mass-produced items, you can have something fitted to you personally and designed to your own taste.
Another pricing issue to watch out for if you're on the curvy side is size-based increases. Many corsetmakers justify this as based on the cost of additional materials for larger sizes. However, if this was truly the case they would be charging very small customers less and setting an average at a medium size. They aren't. Instead the price is one rate for everyone until you qualify as plus size, then it increases. Personally I feel this practice is incredibly unfair.
I hope you'll have picked up some useful tips from this, and will see that Crikey Aphrodite corsets are great quality and great value. But at any rate I hope you'll find something you love.
Happy shopping.